I had to remove this part, as otherwise it got flagged for "brainstorming post", but even a clue on what type of coating this is would help me tremendously.

Different mindset alright. We all have some free time to do things around the place, and who doesn't enjoy the satisfaction of finishing a project?

I think he meant regular tape like duct tape to help keep it attached. It looks like you put it in and tighten the zip tie. Tape is probably for extra security. Personally I think a hose clamp would be better then the zip tie.

Thanks man. I'll just do 1/2 and skim coat it flush with the existing. Removed a tub from our bathroom that was attached straight to studs so I just need to patch up where it was.

I removed a tub in our bathroom that was attached straight to studs so I need to patch where it was. I guess I'll just do 1/2 and add a skim coat(s) till it's flush with existing

Our next door neighbors bought a premade one at a big box store and bolted it to their deck. We live in a hurricane area and it has survived so far.

Just be careful removing the drain so you don't twist the pipes under the tub or break the drain. They come in several different sizes and some have fine thread while others have course threads and make sure you don't loose the rubber gasket that goes between the drain and the tub on the bottom side. When you reinstall the drain make sure you get it good and tight. There is a special tool called a spud wrench for this and I would suggest that you have one. Good luck

$20 max…35’ of standard duty rope caulk is under $3 at Walmart. $6 for 15’ of weaterstrip seal for edges.

Funny thing is these new ones are dirt cheap and will last longer and resist cracking unlike the older more expensive “nail-in” rubber seams.

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You could put up a custom sized shade sail and not have to worry about any codes.

To add to that— Teflon tape is also not appropriate for compression connections like a garden hose style connection of typical American fixture supply hoses.

Use a hose clamp. Snug it up good. Do not use Teflon tape on any part of this.

No it won’t. Teflon tape will make it more likely that the connection will just pull apart.

This is what my wife wants me to do, I wouldn’t even need to cut a hole in the back, because there’s no backing to the bookshelves (building them right up against the wall). Unfortunately it’s the outside frame of the end unit that runs right over the middle of the outlet. I tried for hours to slide all the bookcases over a couple inches in either direction to avoid the outlet, but doing so screws up how the corner unit is angled and makes the whole thing look goofy to me.. seeing it every day like that would drive me insane lol. Thank you for the suggestion though!

Either way you need to run the source to your switch. This will prevent your light socket from being constantly powered in the event that maintenance needs to be performed. This is a dangerous set-up.

The connection on the floor seems to have a reusable zip tie on it. I bet you're supposed to attach the hose by slipping the end of your drain hose into the flexible end on the floor, and tightening that zip tie. Not a super secure way to attach them, but some well placed tape would make it more secure after you have it held in place with the zip tie.

I've no doubt that's why I never have used it. In ny days of construction, we sent a cpl tubs our to be reglazed but that is expensive and time consuming.

“A few inches “ has started many a tussle but it’s eventually gotten over.

All other aghast comments aside- exterior gloss would be easiest to clean. The more money you spend on paint the more pigment you will get and the more life cycles through cleaning you will have. I think an off-white like a gray is also an excellent idea. assuming your concern about smoke discoloration is valid. You have to assume you’ve got that on the paint surface now. Good scrub down first will make all the difference.

Isn't this how it's supposed to be? I don't have super much experience, so an honest question.

In all places I've lived (in Sweden) you have incoming air from an adjustable vent above or below windows, or maybe somewhere else, like the ceiling. If you don't have a vent, then it's random cracks like OP (though never this big :p)

Then you have outgoing vents in bathrooms, toilets, and maybe kitchen.

The negative pressure keeps foul air from spreading from these rooms, and fresh air constantly being replenished.

If you don't have this negative pressure, either if it's by "self draft" , or by fans on the roof, how to you get circulation? In the extreme: how do you get fresh oxygen?

Looks like there's a zip tie on the female side that was crimping it into place. You could probably use a hose clamp that would squeeze it down tighter.

It is obvious that you need to replace the rubber draught strip, yes.
And yet the problem has persisted for at least 6 months and 3 seasons.
If you don’t replace the draught strip how will you know if it needs anything more?

I think he’s safe if he spreads the load across several joist. Plenty of people (me included) have many hundreds of pounds hanging from the garage trusses.

The risk is likely not breaking, but rather slight movement that can cause cracks in the drywall.

You certainly can apply load, it’s just not intended. The trusses form triangles so the snow load and wind uplift are actually causing tension and compression along the length of that bottom chord of the truss. Either pushing or pulling along the length based on the downward or upward pressure. That’s how they can get away with using a “little” 2x4. It’s not direct downward pressure like you get on a 2x8 or 2x10 floor joist (that is just a straight across board and no diagonals) from a load standing on top of it.

Do not use too much quickset, it is a pain in the ass to sand, you never want to have to sand it. I'm not a professional by any means but i only use quickset to tape and fill large gaps, wait an hour, scrape any high spots with your knife, then do one or two coats with slightly thinned mud. Buy it in the 4 gallon buckets an home depot. Light sanding after and your good to go.

Also a lot of the other guys have some very good tips, a wet sponge, you can buy regular sponges in a two pack at HD, completely removes the need to deal with sanding and all the dust that comes with it, as long as your mud is pretty flat.