I have some Bosch drills but they use 10.8V battery, I couldn't find a normal-sized circular saw at that voltage level.

Battery circular saw are definitely NOT lighter than corded ones.

But even with that, I would still say battery. One of the few tools that I think is almost mandatory to be battery powered just for the pure convenience.

In terms of brands, that entirely depends on what is readily available in your area and what kind of deals yoou can find. If you have a cordless drill (which is one of the other mandatory cordless tools) then consider getting the same brand of circular saw since you should be able to share batteries. You are not going to go wrong with any of the brands you mentioned. Of those, I personally would probably go DeWalt. Definitely go with a brushless motor which will give you longer battery life and more power.

A hose clamp looks like it might work. I found something that looks like the drain pipe with a hose clamp included on Amazon. So I guess that's the intention. It'd probably be better than just the zip tie. I think if I measure it and show a picture to a hardware store they might be able to help find me the right size. Thanks a bundle.

Looks like you need a hose clamp you can go to pretty much any hardware store and get one

If you aren't doing major construction the convenience of cordless is unbeatable. I have both and as DIYer I reach for the cordless more often.

Check out the full line of tools that use the battery and charger that you buy. You don't want to end up with 3 or 4 different types of batteries. You will be buying more tools so think long term.

I chose Milwaukee when my original 9volt Makita stick tools wore out. I loved my cordless reciprocating saw and Milwaukee had the best replacement so I switched over.

Buying the compound in a bucket versus using sand mixed hot mud.

Paying extra for the bucket on bigger jobs saved so much time and material.

I really don't have the space for a table saw. The tool will live in the spare bedroom closet for 350 days a year, and see action for the other 15...

I think you might find a small table saw is more versatile. You will get straighter cuts than can be achieved with a circular saw, blade accessories will let you cut dados, and angle cuts for prettier joints.

Yes, you will still have to plug it in.

Cordless all the way.

My Dewalt is atleast 10 years old, rips through plywood no problem. It might balk at 2" of hardwood, but I have never tried. I also have a battery powered track saw, that will chew through 2" of hardwood.

Sometimes I bring it to the store even, I'll rough cut a sheet in the parking lot to fit in the car so I don't need the trailer.

Battery tech has come a long way. They are no longer underpowered. I'd pick a tool brand you like and use that.for all your battery tools.

Hope and pray isn't good engineering.

…but pregnant women licking non-lead based paint is fine, right?

The hook that came with my washer also has a spot to slip a zip tie through so you can strap it to one of the supply hoses for extra security.

I've never seen an in-floor drain like that but my first instinct would be to use a metal hose clamp.

Maybe take a longer shot. Better perspective.

Correct. Never put a switch AFTER the device it's powering. Scary stuff.

FWIW this was my procedure. Removed drain/screen, sanded rust/corrosion, sprayed it with Ospho, used two part resin (for auto/boat fiberglass repair) to fill damage, finish sand, apply epoxy paint over repair. You absolutely have to get it clean before covering it with paint. About 20 years later the repair still looks new.

If it’s on a wall, it’s like 1/2” with just a lot of skim coat and texture.

Having said that, if you’re trying to match the nearly 1” depth, you could buy 5/8” to help save you time skim coating to build up the thickness.

I think I gave a false description. It feels smooth, but by dragging your nails on it, you can definitely feel the texture as well. Aren't vinyl liners typically completely smooth?

But I just took the outlet off and it does look like some sort of special wallpaper/liner has been applied, cause the holes have nicely cut edges for it.

We don't allow posts below ground, period (northern climate). Code prohibits it for decking. Needs to be tied in above ground to concrete footers.

Most deck posts are 6x6 now, right?

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Remember that Code’s idea of accessing a junction box means not cutting holes in drywall.

Having to unload either a closet or a bookshelf to get at the wall plate would pass inspection. Having to unbolt a ‘fixed’ bookshelf or cabinet carcass would not.

I feel like there are more than we all though 😂 ... yeah the money saved is a massive incentive for sure. New Zealand has amazing tradies (for the most part of course) but they charge and arm and a leg.

>It's smooth, but has this textured appearance and very slightly rubbery feel and is very easy to clean.

It sounds like a vinyl shelf liner has been used to wallpaper.

If it is vinyl there is no fixing it, sorry.

Your wiring is right.

Not sure why the dimmers are acting up, but I suspect they're the trouble.

To troubleshoot, I'd go back to dead-nuts basic: incandescent bulbs and rheostat dimmers, then start adding back your desired components.

As someone else mentioned, many dimmers are electronic now, and many of them require a neutral. Since your setup does not have a neutral at the switch, look for dimmers that say right on the package that they don't need a neutral. Rheostat ones don't of course. Also, LED lights have a driver circuit in them that does not always play nice with some dimmers.