I have a 36v Makita. It's very nice. The batteries are a major expense. It takes 2 and if you are doing a big job you want 2 spares on the charger.

I have a battery powered Milwaukee but have had cordless in the past. Battery is more convenient but if the charge is low performance will suffer so factor in the cost of two batteries. If just using a few days a year around the house i would go with a corded saw.

Also for a few days a year there's no shame in using a hand saw. Get a miter box and a couple of saws and your good to go. An example of a simple project with hand tools. https://youtu.be/iBfUbQSmMrE

I’m pretty happy with my 6 1/2 inch Ryobi cordless circular saw.

I also have a 7 1/4 inch Ryobi corded saw that I barely use because the cordless one is so much more convenient and is usually big enough to cut anything I’m working on.

Another plus for the cordless one is that the blade is on the left side which makes it easier for me to see my cut line.

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How sloped is it. If you need a lot of material maybe earth then sand. Or I’ve used gravel then sand. And I’ve used pea gravel instead of a sand base. Then flashed sand into the cracks.

It depends on use. For light use, battery would be preferred. If you plan on heavy use, corded may be better.

You should start by contacting your municipality's utility-locating service. It sounds like you might be in a bit over your head; the consequences of hitting power can easily be fatal.

If you are in the US, call 811 to have them come out and locate the services.

Or look up "utility locating service" in your area and pay someone to come out and locate.

Also look into the code requirements in your area to make sure you can put the shed there

That is a very very good point. Sawdust everywhere was pretty annoying last time round, so this time I'm definitely investing in a proper vacuum cleaner.

I can't recall the brand, but I suspect you are right. I will try installing standard switches first.

Great idea, thanks so much. I will try replacing suspected bad devices today

I think regardless of the material, it's going to be damn near impossible to match the existing texture to create a truly seamless fix.

If it is some sort of vinyl (possible based on the way it melted, but I'm far from an expert), maybe sanding down the high spots and one of those vinyl repair kits could get you close enough, depending on your definition of close enough.

Or maybe it's time to consider some sort of decorative addition to your kitchen that just so happens to sit right in front of the damage. 🙃🤷‍♂️ Hard to tell if that could work or not from the pics - it would obviously have to be something thinner like a painted tile or something.

There's the Bosch 18V-08N, which is cordless, and 0.6m square...

I have never heard this before, I believe it is fairly standard and called light in the middle of a circuit. If I perform maintenance, I will shut the breaker off, right?

I agree it is vinyl, vinyl often has that texture.

>I swear on Red Green's life it isn't.

;-D

Cordless will not be lighter. Lithium or not, that battery has weight.

Also, you should consider how frequently you're going to be using the tool. Batteries aren't eternal, so if this is a once-a-year thing, corded is probably more practical so you don't have batteries dying on the shelf.

While cordless is very cool and handy, personally I'd save the money, run the extension cord, and buy a whole other thing with that $160.

I am pretty happy with my battery DeWalt circular saw and i would generally recommend battery tools. But if you plan on using dust extraction a lot you might be happy with a corded tool since you are already hooking it up to a hose.

Just chiming in to say I had a very similar issue and my fix was buying a new cartridge and changing out the old one which had gotten lots of hard water scales. Old cartridge was a two piece Pfister and replaced it with a newer one and it completely fixed the hot water issue. I unfortunately had to do some tile cutting behind the cover plate to be able to pull out the old cartridge but easy DIY

Currently away, but I uploaded the other one I had on my camera roll. Probably doesn't help much with the perspective though.

You don't want to fuck around with water leakage; you can do tens of thousands in damage before you notice anything is wrong. If you can't figure out the factory-correct way to do this, don't improvise. There is no overkill or underkill, only correct and incorrect.

If wires simply pass through with no splicing, then you could consider it a conduit. He'll need 4" to make it to the next box, then 4" to 6" wire (depending on your state code for how much wire must extend out of the wall at the desired box location), then another 6" to 12" service loop before the box (nice to have for the future), you're looking at 14" to 22" of wire. At that point you're realistically going to use the current box as a junction as you make some very long pig tails. But again, if he can make it to his next box without splicing/extending then it's all good.

live with it - - - or replace the door and frame. And get a good one. That looks like Builder-grade garbage.
You can weatherstrip that til you are blue I rather suspect that it's a lost cause.

>I'd pick a tool brand you like and use that.for all your battery tools.

This all the way. Nothing worse than having 3+ different kinds of batteries.

How……how did I never think of this before now