Pretty inspiring. These pictures could go a long ways to convincing my wife do something like this.

Rootman explained Teflon tape perfectly; I think the worked wants you to use duct tape.

...and idk about that. ¯\(°_o)/¯ Again, see Rootman. MINE is not quite long enough to reach the open drain & I found a PVC pipe that slips over it, perfectly. So I just put like 6" of the drain line into the PVC & it works great, no tape or anything.

Check with your neighbors, friends. See what they have done & what is recommended.

Is that wallpaper?
Def an appliqué of some sort.
You have to either remove/replace or find a spot that has that color/texture and is hidden from view, cut out a section big enough to cover the burn, peel it off, lay it over the burn, cut out the burn part through both pieces, remove the overlay, remove the burned section, replace with overlay.

And this service is free

Do you think something like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Far-North-International-6-ft-x-50-ft-14-Gauge-Galvanized-Welded-Wire-with-2-in-x-4-in-Mesh-Size-W14725024/316476532 would work well and support cucumbers or other vining plants if I used it as an arch?

10” is too tall for just sand. You will need a retaining wall (1 course plus cap blocks should do), then fill and level (string level with proper slope markings) with aggregate (abc, crusher run, etc). Vibrating plate compactor on that to get it tight. Then 1-2” max of sand. Lay down edgers to retain the bricks where there is no wall. Level the sand and lay your bricks/pavers. Plate compactor over that to bed them in. Then I would use polymer sand to fill the gaps. You can use paver sand (different than bedding sand) to lock them in, but polymeric sand keeps the weeds at bay and less maintenance over time.

If it’s not disturbed then what’s the point of sealing up stored items and leaving laundry there?

Thanks. The challenge (which i will add to the post to clarify) is that all the vinyl and file flooring options require that the floors be level to a pretty tight tolerance so that the click mechanism works (and to avoid adding other trip hazards). I agree that slope transition is not noticeable to the human but I am not sure I can get a flooring contractor to install anything but sheet vinyl or carpet. Husband had heart set on something with the aesthetic of planks or tiles. Any follow up thoughts on this?

All the more reason to check local building codes! Our concrete footers need to go below the frost line before you can attach a deck to it if you want any type of structure on it.

Hope it goes smoothly

I was building a green house in my back yard; my brother said to put sand and then gravel on top. I checked with a landscaper friend who made me remove every bit of sand and put small gravel in it instead. It worked out great. But it was a pain getting the sand out.

Building codes vary by where you live, but structure-wise, I'd at least want to pull the deck boards where the posts will be, notch the base of the post so half of it sits on the joist and lag bolt it to the side, then add additional bracing around the post between the joist it's bolted to and the next one over, maybe even on both sides. Make VERY sure your structure is secure.

This guy has a lot of good info, he's Canadian so codes are different, but he explains the why and how very well.

https://youtu.be/p3Z2Bpez31c

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If the drops are only 3/4" this should be no problem. If you use 36" for the slope transition you shouldn't notice it much if at all (1/48 slope). You can make it even more subtle by splitting the difference at the transition point, but that might create an uneven hallway.

You can round out the ramp to allow for covering it with vinyl but unless it has a visible outline you'll find it more comfortable if it's more square. Plus it's easier to cut that way. You'll want to have a compound side cut at a 45 angle from the end of the ramp to the adjacent wall. This should give you the simplest and most comfortable transition, and with a bit of extra work you can lay the vinyl right over it.

Obviously the ideal solution is to rip up the hallway floor but without being on site it's hard to brainstorm elegant solutions.

Just put a back splash there so it never happens again?

This is good advice for sunny southern geographies.

If OP lives somewhere with a freeze thaw cycle, don't do this.

No Teflon. They mean you should use duct tape lol. There is SUPPOSED to be a small plastic part here that hooks onto that main line to hold this smaller line in place.

Fun fact, there is no such thing as compacted sand. Sand is the absolute worst base for anything.

It has a purpose in hard scaping, but filling isn't it.

The big pro of battery is portability and the cons are upfront cost, upkeep of batteries and eventual replacement. If you travel, use it frequently, and all over your worksite it can definitely be worth it. If it's just for infrequent garage projects and occasionally helping at a friends house I think the cost and reliability of a cord could be the better value. If you're getting into the hobby and doing finish work, a table saw with a good fence may be your best investment.

If this is an unfamiliar concept to you, and you choose to do this yourself, use a meter and extreme caution. Otherwise call a professional because this is isn't even the root problem.

Negative, that is not what it's called and you haven't heard that from anybody that knows what they are talking about. I'm somewhat sure that is a code violation, an expert can correct me. Your switch or 'safety device' is always installed on the line side of equipment. Line side being the supply from your breaker.

Don't go cheap on a tool like this, it will just give you aggravation.

Also, the cheaper ones can't always accept a dado stack...

Use two layers, first is base rock tamped down tight and properly sloped then a couple of inches of masonry or paver sand. Finally paver sand is used to fill the cracks after the bricks are laid. Do not use pea gravel. The roundness of pea gravel does not allow it to tamp down tight.

You also need a border to keep everything tight.

Damn you now I'm researching table saws. The cheapest "brand name" one I can find is Bosch GTS 635-216 at 400 euros. Compared to 120 for a corded or 300 for a battery-powered circular saw...

I’ll call 811, the ‘call before you dig number’. One obvious pitfall might be that if the service needs to be dug up for repair the building would be in the the way. However if it needed work I would simply dig around the building and replace the entire power wire. It would only be a few extra feet of wire. How expensive is wire these days? The alternative is to place the building a few hundred feet in another location. But it’s a lot more trenching and wire to run power and water to the building. Thanks