Barrie contractor - yes pour columns down below your local frost line about 36 inches, install 6x6 saddles for the post and carry on from there. Frost heave will not be pretty on the new deck, if your not attaching to the house then it will otherwise be truest floating with no anchor points.

Yeah, i kinda regret buying a battery powered saw since mainly use it for woodworking in my garage workshop.

What have you done….go to YouTube. There are thousands of videos for ya. That’s WAY too much mud

This is one of those counterintuitive building science things. Done properly, a house with a conditioned attic will require less HVAC energy than a house with a vented attic. Generally speaking, there's enough gains in latent loads, stack effect control, and keeping the ducts in conditioned space to offset the additional conditioned area.

but vented or conditioned is much less important than getting the details for either correct.

I did as you said and you were correct. I connected the black dimmer switch wire to the black Romex wire going to the light. I connected the solid red to the black jumper going to the switch on the right. Thank you so much for the help.

There are actually some very good reasons to include the attic in the heated space (e.g. if your hvac conduits are inside your conditioned space rather than running through a blistering hot or freezing cold attic, you can prevent fairly significant losses and actually save money even though you're heating a larger space), but you have to make sure your attic, roof, and HVAC systems are set up for it. You shouldn't just slap insulation on the bottom of the roof deck and assume it will work, it may not and it also has the possibility of creating things like moisture damage problems in your roof depending on your climate.

When we installed our above ground pool, I used what was called "dead" sand. It was very fine. It did compact to a very firm base.

I don't know if its appropriate in the OPs situation but it does compact.

Beach sand....can't say.

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Technically, that’s correct, they’re part of the truss assembly. The bottom chord.

A quick Google search does find plenty of results for span tables that includes 2x4’s though.

Absolutely, laser levels and drop ceilings go together like PB & J.

I just don't know if laying textured wall paper (nothing aggressive, grasscloth pattern) under the brackets would cause any issues. I really don't think so because not worrying about straight cuts at the top and bottom of the paper (we are also doing wainscoting) would make the project much easier

You ought to get yourself a hose clamp.

Agreed. Ducting tends to be leaky, and any insulation on them is likely maximum R-6 or R-8. So heating/cooling loss and negative pressure on your living space.

What do you have for heating & cooling then? Baseboard heaters, mini-split, or something else?

I have never done it before but I am a good DIY'er. I framed up the basement and now drywall, and am onto finishing the second room. In the family room we want to do textured wallpaper and wainscoting, so I'll only be papering the top half on the wall. It's a grasscloth texture, so no pattern to match.

Finish the wall first, then put your L brackets on.

A laser level is invaluable for drop ceilings and is the easiest way to keep yourself honest with a consistent height and straight lines.

It's actually just a SpacePak air handler, so no heating equipment or AC compressor, just the intake, handler, and some ducts, though it seems those might also be important to keep in a relatively conditioned space

Are you good at wallpaper? If not be careful. You have to make sure the seams and patterns match etc. my wife did wallpaper in a room of our house it didn’t turn out well. I wish we would have paid the 500 bucks to the company that do it all the time. Now because it looks bad we have to figure out something else which will cost more money.

I would assume that the HVAC unit in your attic is the furnace & vent pipes. Do you have a separate AC unit outside on the ground somewhere?

The problem with having HVAC in the article is the heat/cooling loss from improperly insulated vent pipes. So if you enclose the space with spray foam or other method on the underside of the roof sheathing, your HVAC system doesn’t have to work as hard.

https://buildingscience.com/documents/building-science-insights-newsletters/bsi-119-conditioned-unconditioned

https://buildingscience.com/documents/bareports/ba-0305-why-it-s-so-important-and-troubling-to-keep-ducts-and-equipment-in-conditioned-space/view

Thank you, this makes a lot of sense. Much appreciated!

There I googled it for you. I know you are trying to help but you are not.

https://www.google.com/search?q=wiring+a+switched+light+in+middle+of+circuit&sxsrf=APwXEdcyDpNI78K35DTk3uKJ6nk7gqcUZQ%3A1680279196594&source=hp&ei=nAYnZNuoIdSsqtsPl4C4QA&iflsig=AOEireoAAAAAZCcUrBUeTFREJjhdufVjjJUbbOgbd0CL&oq=wire+a+light+in+middle+of+circuit&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAEYADIGCAAQFhAeMgYIABAWEB4yCAgAEIoFEIYDMggIABCKBRCGAzoECCMQJzoLCC4QgAQQsQMQgwE6EQguEIAEELEDEIMBEMcBENEDOgsIABCKBRCxAxCDAToOCC4QgAQQsQMQxwEQ0QM6BQgAEIAEOgsIABCABBCxAxCDAToLCC4QgAQQxwEQrwE6CAguEIAEELEDOggIABCABBCxAzoHCAAQgAQQCjoKCAAQgAQQsQMQCjoICC4QsQMQgAQ6CAgAEBYQHhAPOgUIIRCgAToFCCEQqwI6CAghEBYQHhAdUABYqV5gupoBaABwAHgAgAGLAYgB6xuSAQUxMC4yM5gBAKABAQ&sclient=gws-wiz

Yeah that's pricy, thanks a ton for the info!

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Yep. I presume your 1919 house doesn’t have soffit vents or ridge vents in the roof, so you would have to use closed cell spray foam which is a minimum of $2.50/sqft for 2” thickness (R14). This is per sqft of roof deck, not floor space.

You'll be heating less surface area and volume.

In my area (zone 5), ceiling R-value requirement is R-49. The job would require one run of tunnel vents at the eaves, some fiberglass batts to block them up and 18"-20" of blown insulation on the flat ceiling. To get the same R-value on the rafters, you would need either a hybrid of spray foam/batts/rigid board insulation, or build down the rafters for batts. You'd also have to apply R-19 to the gables, and consider a venting solution.

Decisive, I like it. Thank you! Just to save on installation and materials?

Ah right, I totally misread ceiling as meaning rafters and thought they were suggesting the opposite. Makes more sense now.