They’re using compacted sand for the entire foundation of a new stadium they’re building in my home town - they had a huge sand compacter machine thumping into it for days, so it must be usable to some extent… Stadium build

Looks like it has some sort of clamp…not sure how it tightens…

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Outdoors-Patio-Furniture-Hammocks-Hammock-Stands/Chair/N-5yc1vZbxb8Z1z17mfj

The more you spread out the weight the better. BUT if it's only for a chair...then I wouldn't even begin to worry about this.

As I said...work men are able to walk across single trusses without 'damaging' the structure or loading. Therefore YOU 'sitting in a chair' is the same 'live load' for the area.

I WOULD do as you initially planned and span 4-5 trusses...use a beam calculator to determine the amount of deflection you'll get at each distance and use spacers/shims so you get equal loading to each beam. I'm 220# and walk across standard roof trusses with wild abandon...on one foot supporting all my loading. As I suspect you're equally heavy - and adding for chair and support you still probably wouldn't break a truss...but swing loading is different than static loading. So yeah...span 4 trusses have the outside trusses with like 1/2" spacers and the two closer ones with 1/4" spacers - that'll help spread out the load. As it's a chair it's presumed you wouldn't be loading it at the same time workers are also 'up there' (either roof or attic). Edit: Actually use a beam calculator to determine the correct deflection distances from the load - don't just run with the 1/2 - 1/4 I plucked out of no where. The closer you position to other vertical members the better - as everything 'works together' as a system.

Of course a hammock stand to the floor would 'spread out' the weight better...as that's got plywood as a load distributor instead of drywall - so you get more spread out loading instead of point loading.

I suspected it was a hammock chair...but it's more fun to be 'kinky' about it...but have also heard silly things like someone wanting to suspend fish tanks because 'it would look cool' - without realizing how much a lot of water actually weighs (and bodies being mostly water).

Anywhere you can spread out the load and transfer it more evenly to the ground is ideal.

I still would consult an engineer...only because were you to damage the home...or structurally impact it you'd need to declare (full disclosure) that in a home sale and/or insurance claim. Stamped calcs would clear you of 'reckless damage' (and other legal/financial risks).

As I said another option would be to stiffen up the existing trusses...usually done with slapping 3/4" ply on either side and through bolting (sandwiching the member). Stiffening won't 'solve' all the problems but will help transfer the loads to the walls and limit deflection.

Common safety factor is 2x and always plan for the worst...ala the potential of two people climbing in...the nicer thing about a stand is it becomes the sacrificial lamb instead of your ceiling/roof structure. You're unlikely going to cave in a floor any more than you would when two people hug/stand in the same spot.

Still engineering calcs would solve a lot of problems. I'd call one and find out the fee for it - it may be way less than you're suspecting - and determine how best to proceed. If the calcs cost more than a stand, get a stand...or if that would ruin your aesthetic and/or not fit in the ceiling height.

Giving up isn't a 'solution'...impossible only happens when you give up. You've got this...some things are worth the effort. Good luck and you're welcome.

Edit: I was the one that suggested transferring loading to the floor btw.

>FWIW this was my procedure. Removed drain/screen, sanded rust/corrosion, sprayed it with Ospho, used two part resin (for auto/boat fiberglass repair) to fill damage, finish sand, apply epoxy paint over repair. You absolutely have to get it clean before covering it with paint. About 20 years later the repair still looks new.

Thanks for the info!

Ah, so that probably explains what those scratches along the groove were about. They match perfectly with the use of a wire tool.

Glad it worked out. Thanks for the update!

I learned to use two buckets. Dip in one, squeeze in the other.

Seriously? That was not what I learned, but do tell.

Thank you so much! Finally I wrote Wilka (the lock Trademark) and they send me the original instructions. I'm going to attach it to the post.

Many thanks!

Cheers.

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As long as the wires are properly capped and in a junction box of some sort, with access, you're good. Ac over like below -- but they also come in plastic.

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The other option is to disconnect the wire at the other end -- assuming that connection box is accessible. That way you have a dead wire (nothing connected at either end) in the walls, which is no problem.

Thanks!

The musty dank air, dust that might contain spores, insects looking for...places

As an alternative you might consider a roll up awning such as those on RVs. Use for shade and light misty rain but roll up when heavier rain is forecast, snow or any winds.

EDIT: Also don't leave up over night or any time it isn't attended, weather can change on a moments notice.

Making a 30X30" wood frame with a mesh fabric covering it. The purpose is that it will be a cassette that slides into a rack. Think like a bakers rack. Only this is for clothing. What's the best way to secure the mesh fabric to the wood frame? Would staples work? Or will it rip through? Based on this idea

Got it. Thanks for your thoughts on this.

Based on the comments in this thread and after confirming the type of roof I have, I gave up going ahead with this idea. It might be able to support it ok but I do not want to find out.

By the way, the plan was to hang a Hammock Chair like this which would not be bearing the load 24x7.

Renting here. Moved into a very old home, at least a hundred years old. The water heater is electric and just not cutting it. I want to turn up the heat, but I can’t for the life of me find the circuit breaker to cut off power before I do so. I’ve called the owner and he doesn’t know where the circuit breaker is either. I’m thinking because of the age, it’s probably a fuse box instead.

Is there a way to adjust the heat of an electric water heater if I don’t have a circuit breaker? Im tired of warm-at-best showers.

What you have drawn originally is correct and should work with one switch controlling one light. You need to make sure the switch is on the line side (breaker) not the load side (after the light). If it is actually wired like that you have other issues.

The Google photo is a 3way circuit. It is different in that the switches have an extra "runner wire" directly connecting the 2 switches so that both devices will operate at either end.

The problem your describing sounds like how a 3way should operate.

Thank you very much for all your insights and detailed response. I really appreciate it.

Based on the comments in this thread and after confirming the type of roof I have, I gave up going ahead with this idea. It might be able to support it ok but I do not want to find out.

Someone suggested to transfer the load to the floor. One option I could see would be to support the 4x4/2x4 on two opposite walls in the room. I know the walls use metal studs and I assume it would need to lay on top of stud post that goes to the floor, not between studs. Anyway, I am giving up this idea for now.

By the way, the plan was to hang a Hammock Chair like this which would not be bearing the load 24x7. I also liked the "romantic/intimate" swing idea.... LOL.

If the current wires can reach the new box, then he can pigtail or splice in the new box. But currently he has pig tails in the existing box which leads me to believe he does not have sufficient wire to make it to the new box. In which case he will replace the existing pigtail with a really long one. That new pig tail be done in the current box, and then pass into the new box. I hope that makes it clearer.

What you've shown me is a 3-way switched circuit. Which you have confirmed in a previous post that you do not have.

Radiator heating with a boiler in the basement and separate AC systems for upstairs and downstairs

Here is my advice. Hire someone that does this for a living. Its not worth the frustration and then forever you will notice all the mistakes every time you are near it.

Span charts for 10 pounds per square foot. Not really walkable. And at 30 psf, the 2x4s disappear from the chart.

I live northwest of you. By 8 hours. So it gets super cold up here. Going with the foam is more expensive, but in the hear savings it pays for itself in 5 years. So, if you're going to live there for more than 5 years, get the foam. If you're planning to live there less than that, get the blown.

In both cases, go with the ceiling insulation, not the rafters. The rafters won't give you enough thickness, and you'll need an air chute the entire length of the rafter, to prevent ice dams. You might have venting issues because of the way roofs were constructed back then with the center spine acting as a venting block.

Another vote for wallpaper before ceiling. Why give yourself the extra work of trimming the ends and removing paste from the grids?