Yeah, back a few years ago I was looking to upgrade some ceiling fan/lights in my house and noticed hunter has an all around shockingly limited selection! They’re a great brand, but they seriously need to catch up selection-wise. Ones I’ve seen doing home renovations are pretty badass and there’s ones that u can attach the remote to, so it’s easy to put somewhere to keep up with it when you leave the room, then grab it back off the switch when you come into the room

Thank you for the info and the words of encouragement. Yes, I would still prefer to have it hanging than have it on floor. It allows me to put on or take it off to store it away when not in use. And of course, could also be used for other (kinky) applications, which is a bonus. ;-)

With that said, I'll see if I can find an engineer for such small job to reassure everything is ok.

Thanks again.

Looks like some kind of vinyl wallpaper behind a stove top. Not sure what genius thought that was a good idea but pretty much non repairable. You need a heat proof material there like tile or metal.

There is no seamless patch. This is all wrong above a cook top.

Lots of official sources recommend it. Eg. https://www.health.ny.gov/publications/2502.pdf

As long as you just soften the paint rather than absolutely roasting it then it doesn't create dangerous fumes.

Use an non visible skrewdriver!

But seriously, this door is most likely installed like gate hinges. Loosen the top hinge, rotate, then lift door out.

If I was you do the wallpaper and paint then do the wall mold. No reason to make it more difficult. You may have the odd touch ups to do but that's better than trying to cut a paint line to the wall mold

From my amateur knowledge, totally fine, this is what bulkheads usually enclose. But a few things to mention. If you have any junction boxes in there, you need to maintain access to them through an access panel. Also, I'd add some protection from someone screwing something into the ceiling and hitting one of those lines. Someone put a screw through my central vac line and I can't use one of the outlets now as it always gets clogged due to the screw catching all the crap being sucked through.

Putting vinyl wall covering on a wall that a stove is touching was not a good idea. This was going to happen eventually. That’s why people often use tile, metal, or another backsplash-like material next to a stove.

The only downside I see is a wind blowing the shed away.

Even sharp sand? I was led to believe it might be more suitable

I didn’t even think about that. When you say don’t disturb it do you mean not to have someone come and cover it or remove it?

I was waiting for the wood on wood comment :)

I'm no expert but I wonder if unscrewing that hex bolt, then lifting the door up would work. With 2 people of course.

In some places it's freestanding vs attached that's important.

Sand sucks for various reasons. Mason/Paver/Concrete sand is commonly used as a bedding material for pavers (only ~1” depth on top of compacted base) but it erodes easily with water and doesn’t compact well. I know several Hardscapers that strongly recommend against sand.

Depending on your area, you want a minimum of 3-4 inches of compacted Road 2, 3/4 minus, or equivalent. If you have poor foundation and/or get a lot of rain and settling, 6-8” is more ideal. On top of that use 1” or 1 1/4” rails to screed a 1”layer of DG or 1/4” chip stone and then lay your pavers. Use polymeric sand to fill the joints. If you must use sand as a bedding material for the pavers, then concrete sand is preferred because it is more coarse. I would NOT use sand as a base.

Perfect, thanks all!

In that case, I imagine a paver base would be just fine as long as it’s level.

Your resin shed with a floor will do great over pavers on gravel. For best results, make the paver base as flat as possible, to result in a shed build that will not be out of square or forced together. Get a few extra pavers to build a sort of ramp up into the shed.

The six-sided slot is for a hex-head fitting. An Alan wrench or key is needed, and are commonly found at home improvement stores, etc. The picture on the left looks to be a special tool needed, so that one is probably best to avoid. Be sure to support the glass and put a folded towel over any metal or hard surfaces it might come into contact with. Tempered glass is tough, but when it breaks it does so in spectacular fashion into a thousand tiny pieces.

Sorry, to clarify, not building the shed from scratch. I have one of those 7x7 resin sheds similar to suncast.. this one has its own floor

What sort of shed are you planning on building? Will it have a raised floor or is the plan for the pavers to be the floor like a dirt floor, but more paver-y?

Regardless, can you do it and should you do it area two different questions. Do you live in an area where it rains a lot? If the floor (assuming joists) can’t dry, it will rot. Concrete gets wet and stays wet for a long time, so having the full length of the joists in contact isn’t the best idea. The other problem you might run into is getting the floor truly level and flat. Gravel shifts and having a lot of weight on any spot could well push the shed corner down and cause it to sink.

Personally, I think a better idea would be to use plastic footings. You can level the floor and you don’t have dug down like with concrete piers.

All depends on your shed construction of course.

It’s a really unnecessarily steep slope - we’re in the UK and do get rain but not THAT much

That is textured vinyl wall panel. Someone painted the blue.

Good advice thanks 🙏

Very helpful thanks